A WORD ON THE SAINT LAURENT MUSE
Through a crescendo of elegance, this collection serves as an exceptional reminder that everything is always considered when it comes to Saint Laurent.
There is something to be said about seeing yourself in others, a superpower that Yves always had in the palm of his hand, which has been carried on through the vision of Anthony Vaccarello. Time and time again the Saint Laurent woman is eternally able to reinvent herself by pushing the boundaries of tailoring, and the S/S 2025 collection reinforced this very notion.
The spectacle took place on a cobalt-blue runway floor, a gentle yet undeniable reference to Yves’ gardens in Marrakech. The collection commenced with an on-flow of defined lapels, double-breasted oversized blazers, and bombers layered over androgynous tailoring, all compounded with accessories of an intrepid nature. An overarching statement of power was threaded ubiquitously from start to finish which mirrored undeniable Yves-esque characteristics of slicked hair and thick-rimmed glasses.
Feminine sensibilities were contrasted with conventionally defined masculine silhouettes, which served as a cultural touchpoint to that of the modern woman. A perfectly balanced sense of domineering softness was orchestrated which transcended conventionally defined binaries.
The repeated albeit warmly welcomed presence of fluid suits serves as an ode to Le Smoking, the first representation of the female tuxedo presented as a byproduct of Yves' clairvoyant tendencies. A masterpiece that has been immortalised in design history, as it was synonymous with renewal and defiance. The ‘66 objective was to highlight feminine anatomical allure through tailoring which had previously been ruled off strictly as a man’s uniform. Conversely, the tailoring that Vaccarello presented in Paris served as an antidote to this overt showcasing, evidencing a modern agency that screamed dark romanticism. The metamorphosis of Saint Laurent can be conceptualised through the evolution of the tuxedo.
Vaccarello, who cut his teeth at Fendi under the guiding hand of Lagerfield, has now undeniably developed the title of maestro within the art of juxtaposing aesthetic coherence. Muscular power suits were interrupted by a sea of maximalism which was composed of diaphanous twill gowns composed of brocade and lace which had been brought to life with decadent embroidery. Exotic jacquard sets encompassed a concrete existence in the collection, which served as a delicate reference to Loulou de la Falaise, a special someone to the house.
Symphonies of vibrant colours made a nostalgic reference to the decadence of 70’s evening wear. Featured pieces included lace-adorned skirts, floral printed cropped jackets and high-neck ruffled blouses.
The brand’s fondness of bohemian sensibilities was prominent during the latter part of the extravaganza through a mirage of chiffon dresses paired with chunky beaded necklaces. An equal sense of severity was adopted with these inherently playful flavours, reminding us that the Saint Laurent woman resides outside of the box.
After being named the face of the 2024 Saint Laurent autumn/winter campaign in June, Bella is back, and there are very few to do it quite like her. Breaking a two year hiatus, Bella stepped out onto the runway in a classic inky suit that mirrored the minimal opulence of Yves’ wardrobe.
Yves was his own muse, exhibiting his personal style on the runway. Vaccarello utilised the location of Rue de Bellechasse as a tribute to the founder’s signature codes and unparalleled design language whilst simultaneously reflecting the timeless attitude of the house. Vaccarello’s cadence takes us to the extremes and showcases the multifaceted archetype of the Saint Laurent woman, in addition to the duality of Yves himself.
See more from Saint Laurent here / Words by Jorgia Burke
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